Horse-riding up Cerro Campanario- 23rd February 2011

Charlotte and I headed about 10 miles out of town to Tom Weastley's Cabalgatas to do a one and a half hour ride up Cerro Campanario.  Jimmy refrained from coming as his back was still aching from the last time we went riding (and he preferred to go to the hotel spa for a massage!).



We went riding through trails of the ancient coihue woods, and up to some great panoramic viewpoint of Cerro Campanario, from where we saw Lake Nahuel Huapi and the San Pedro peninsula:



Riding round the hill,

we reached the viewpoints of El Trébol lagoon, Lake Moreno, Mounts Bella Vista, Goye, López and Capilla and then we returned through woods and plains.

Ruta de los Siete Lagos - 22nd February 2011

We got an early start to go "Riding the Road of the 7 Lakes" in our rental car - first a 50 mile drive from Bariloche to the start of the route, and then 70 miles on the "Ruta" up to San Martin, passing Lago Lacar, Machonico, Hermoso, Villarino, Falkner, Escondido, Traful, Espejo Chico/Grande and Correntoso (9 lakes...?).

About half of this drive was on a dirt road! (we nearly gave up and turned round).   The road itself wasn't too bad, it was all the dust created by every car that passed, and some roadworks.

The scenery was spectacular.  We stopped at a few places along the way, including a water fall:

We had a picnic lunch sitting down by a nice lake.

When we got to San Martin, we were back in civerlization again - Charlotte got to go trampolining by the lake:


On the way back we took a slightly different route - although still about 40 miles of dirt road, it was much better as we seemed to be the only car on this spectacular route and hence a lot less dust clouds.  The scenery was different - going over mountains, and just as spectacular. The picture below shows where we had just driven from:


The whole trip took us about 9 hours with a few stop along the way.

There were a few police check points along the way, where we had to show documents.  Not sure if this was because it was so close to the boarder with Chile.

Bariloche 20-24th February 2011

San Carlos de Bariloche, usually known as Bariloche, is a city in the province of Rio Negro, Argentina, situated in the foothills of the Andes, just by the boarder with Chile, about 1,600km from Buenos Aires.  Strung out along the shoreline of Lago Nuhuel Huapi, in the middle of the national park, Bariloche has one of the most gorgeous settings imaginable.  Surrounded by lakes and mountains, the whole region around is known as the Lake District area.  It is a major international tourist destination with a permanent population exceeding 130,000.   The Cerro Catedral mountain is one of the most important ski centers in South America.

Our first full day there - we rented a car and first headed to Cerro Otto and took a cable car to the top of the mountain - the views were amazing:


Next we headed out along the Circuito Chico (short circuit scenic drive of about 60km) and went on a boat ride on the lake


stopping at El Bosque de Arrayanes, an island with a forest of rare orange coloured trees, found only here and Japan

and then onto Victoria Island


On the drive back we did a detour to Colonia Suiza, which was like a little Swiss village in the middle of nowhere, with beautiful wood build buildings of bizzar architecture! You would think you were in a Hobbit village deep in the forest and expecting to see Billbo Baggins.  We stopped at a restaurant and had cheese fondue for dinner (checking out all the people in the restaurant to see if if they had Hobbit hairy feet)!

The town of Bariloche is very pretty - it looks very similar to the mountain areas of Austria or Switzerland.

It is also known as the chololate capital of Argentina, with many different types of chocolate being sold and chocolate shops everywhere.  The best chocolate was Mamuschka (according to the guide books and our samplings!).  We also visited a chocolate factory.

For some reason, the town features the St Bernards Dog and have a few in town posing for pictures

Rain Chaos - Sunday 20th February

The apartment was all packed up, 2 big bags dropped off at a hotel in Buenos Aires for our return in 4 days time, (one to hopefully stay there 3 weeks til we come back on the cruise ship!) alarm set for 4.30am and the taxi driver just called to say he couldn’t pick us up in the morning.  Radio taxis had a message playing that I couldn’t understand.

During the night there was torrential rain - thunderstorms. By 5.15am we were standing outside the apartment trying to find a taxi in the rain. Finally we found one.  We expected it to be quiet on the roads but found completely the opposite – hundreds of people everywhere, coming out of the discos!  Many walking barefoot  - everywhere was flooded (rain and high tide don’t mix well!).  Cars were stuck in the flooded roads – the taxi had to take a detour to avoid flooded roads.

Not surprisingly, the airport was a mess. No flights could leave due to the floods and the check in systems were all down due to no electricity. People were laying everywhere:

2 hours after we were due to take off - sitting waiting ……. the screens all say (in Spanish) "ask an Agent" - but there were no agents to be found anywhere! - everyone is just walking around aimlessly wondering what an earth is happening.  We couldn't understand anything of the limited announcements also. Charlotte managed to hook up playing DS Mario brothers with a 10 year old Swedish girl, each on their own DS – its always great to see how well children can communicate even though they don’t speak each others language (although we are getting very used to this now!).

3 hours after we were due to take off, the screen suddenly shows a different departure gate - we run to the other end of the airport with many others - they start to load us on a plane and soon we are off! - I have no idea if everyone on our flight made it......

2 hours later we are in Bariloche - it's beautiful.

Unfortunately the hotel can't find our reservation.... - turns out I had booked it for 20-24th March!! and they are full! - finally they manage to fit us in but we have to switch rooms twice during a 4 night stay! 

While they are trying to sort out and clean a room for us, we take Charlotte iceskating close by

We finally get a room, the view from our room of Nahuei Huapi Lake is fantastic and worth the wait:

End of a Month in Buenos Aires

We are now almost at the end of our one month stay in Buenos Aires.  On Sunday we head up to the Andes to the Lake District area of Bariloche.

Below are some of the things we have noticed or experienced so far of life in Argentina:

• Buenos Aires is a lot more like a European city than South American - it's easy to think you are in Paris or Madrid with the wide tree lined avenues running through the city (some with 9 lanes in one direction!) and the lovely parks.
• The "Portenos" (Buenos Aires people) dress well and are known to think of themselves as more superior to the rest of South America.
• Mate is the equivalent of the "British tea" - you see people drinking it on the street outside their houses or shops - there are many varieties though out the country,
• You kiss everyone you meet once on the cheek
• We don't need to rent a car in the city as there is an abundance of good public transportation and taxis are everywhere at a fraction of the price of a London cab.  When we did rent a car, we ended up getting lost!

Inflation..... is a way of life - forecast at 33% this year (and same last year) Argentineans are well used to continual price increases (unlike us).  We are now getting use to the prices quoted in books we read or websites, to be well below the actual current price.  Outside of the touristy areas, a (rare) English menu in a local restaurant will usually have prices lower than the Spanish menu, purely because they have not updated it so often - of course the final bill prices are higher....  I gave up after the first time of trying to point out that our bill was more than the price quoted in the menu!

We were last here in 1997.  Then it was not a cheap place to visit.   The peso was pegged 1:1 to the US$, supposedly having the same amount of US$ in vaults, as pesos in circulation.  This had followed the real crisis they had had in the 80s where inflation was often over 50% per month! The country could not sustain this 1:1 rate, exports were hurting, the government was not being quite right on reserves... (we heard that there was probably more US$ in personal vaults than the treasury), and in 2002 the currency was devalued to a more realistic level.  Argentina then became (like most of South America) a cheap place to visit.

Interestingly though, usually high inflation would be coupled with currency depreciation (ie no net change to the visiting Gringos) but despite the 30% ish inflation over the last year, the exchange rate has stayed fairly constant at 4 peso to 1 US$.  Previously it would have been compensated by the weakening peso.  Argentina is no longer as cheap as it was a few years ago, to the foreign visitor.  

We often wonder how some locals manage here - we see many homeless in the streets - one day, when we were buying an ice cream, Jimmy bought 3 more and gave them to the young kids who were sitting with their mother who was begging at the side of the road - they didn't seem to know what to do with them....  Charlotte has noticed and hopefully it has got her to appreciate what she has.

Children's Museum - 17th and 18th February

After two long days catching up with home schooling, we took the bus to the Children's museum.  Charlotte had a great time - we stayed for over 3 hours and she managed to persuade Jimmy to take her back again the next afternoon!

Children's museums are great (for children....) - they vary in theme by location.  Based on a friend's recommendation, we went to one in San Francisco last November, and would always try and visit again in other cities.

This Children's Museum focused on roll playing:

• Charlotte working at McDonalds:

• in a supermarket (with pretend food):

• a doctor delivering babies:

Great Horse Riding in the Pampers - 15th February 2011

With Jimmy at the wheel, six of us squeezed into a rental car and headed 80km north out of town to the country, for a day at Estancia Los Dos Hermanos (The Two Brothers Ranch).



After being greeted with breakfast, the horses were saddled up and we headed out for a 2 hour ride around around the estancia.  We were given a quick lesson on how to ride Argentinian style (a little different from the Bristish way and the western US way). Charlotte was nervous at the thought of being alone on a horse, heading into the wilderness, but, with Haley at her side, she soon looked like a natural!

Before long she was trotting across the fields.


With only 2 others joining us, we were a group of 8.  Don Juan (who spoke no English) was our leader,

with Roseta (daughter of the owners, who did speak English) brought up the rear.  It was fantastic, and those that wanted, got the opportunity to canter and gallop.

Back to the estancia for home made Empanadas and drinks, as an appertizer for the Asada (Argentine BBQ).


As usual, lots of meat, brought out to the table on sizzling mini grills.  Unfamiliar with the Argentine asadas, the others tucked into the sausages and ribs (thinking that was it) to be amazed when 2 further meat (steak) courses followed!

After lunch, there was time for a sleep in the hammocks,

a swim in the pool

and a wander round the estansia, before saddling up again after 4pm for a further 2 hours.


We soon split into 2 groups - Jimmy, Tommy and I headed off with Don Juan for a long ride with lots of cantering (more than we could deal with by the end!!).

Charlotte came back all excited from her ride as she had managed to canter (in a circle which she found a lot less frightening than out flat in the wild!).

Getting off the horses, we all knew we would be aching the next day!  Mate (Argentine tea) and cake were laid out


Time for a quick swim.  We had all had a great day!





By 7pm it was time to leave, to get Tommy, Lisa and Haley to the airport for their 10pm flight back to USA - not a lot of time to spare for over 100km drive, but Lisa was calm, as they were checked in, only hand luggage and on standby - "if we miss it, we'll go tomorrow" she said.  After getting lost trying to change autopiste (not understanding a word of the signs), doing a u turn down a one way street the wrong way in front of a police station, not surprisingly getting puller over and having to get out of a ticket by not understanding a word they were saying, we finally got them to the airport about 50 minutes before the flight took off!  They just made the flight, Jimmy and I got lost driving back to the apartment, and we all woke up feeling very sore! But a GREAT DAY!

Park Day - Sunday 13th February 2011

We are staying in an area of Buenos Aires called Palermo, which has lots of nice park areas close by.  One of Charlotte's favourite things to do is to go to the park nearby and rent bikes and rollerblades to go around the lake!  Sunday we all took a picnic to the park and rented rollerblades etc.

Temaiken Zoo - Saturday February 12th 2011

Temaiken is a large zoo about 50km north of the city of Buenos Aires.  It is way nicer than the local zoo in Buenos Aires.  We all had a great day out their seeing many different types of animals.

Next Visitors - Friday 11th February

Friday morning, Lisa, Tommy and Haley arrived from New Jersey (via Chile).  Charlotte was so excited waiting for Haley to arrive.  Their first afternoon we did a trip over to Puerto Madreas, so a late lunch in the "cow restaurant" (as Charlotte and Haley named it).  Basically for less than $20 each adult, we ate unlimited types of meat from the never-ending grill, plus salad-bar, desert and all drinks.


A quick trip to the Boca after - Tommy, Lisa and Haley were soon into the Buenos Aires lifestyle, doing tango on the stage at a restaurant!  By the time we got home they were all ready for bed, after their overnight flight!!

Tango - Miercoles Febrero 9th

Tango is very much the part of Argentine tradition.  It started in the Boca (an area in Buenos Aires) with the working class and it was a while before it was accepted in the "higher circles".  Each dance has a story to it, a bit like folk tale and it's very beautiful to watch.   A lot of the outdoors tourist restaurants in the Boca have tango shows on while you eat, and encourage the tourists to come and try.  We spent Gertie's last afternoon at the Boca and all of us had a turn at the tango!

Gertie arrives 2nd February 2011

Wednesday 2nd February, Gertie arrived from Bermuda, to visit for a week.

Unfortunately her luggage didn't....  so first stop was some quick shopping.  We soon had her running all around sightseeing - within 2 days she felt she had been here a week!  Within a few hours of arriving she was out doing the tourist bus sightseeing.


Jimmy did a great job as tour guide! - a visit to the Boca:


another trip out to a different Estancia:


and museums, while Charlotte and I continued on with our home schooling and Spanish lessons til early afternoon.

During her week stay, we also managed a couple of afternoon games at the local bridge club! - the communication was "interesting" and luckily there were unusual bids to be explained!

Once night Gertie and I we went to see a Tango Show and a night on the town!


On Saturday we all took a day trip out to Tigre, a town north of Buenos Aires, with a guide that unfortunately didn't seem to know where she was going! 2 Train trips, a visit to the market and then a boat trip on the River Plate back to Buenos Aires.


On Sunday, Gertie and Jimmy headed off to a bar full of North Americana to watch the Superbowl.

By Monday, despite her age, it was obvious that Gertie had a lot more energy than us!!   A last trip to the Boca on Wednesday, all us us up dancing tango at the restaurant, and then Gertie headed off to the airport.

The Zoo - Monday 31st January 2011

We switched Spanish school this week, to somewhere closer and earlier, so that we would have some time in the afternoon to sightsee.   Kathy Zack (from San Francisco) had arrived at the weekend off her cruise ship Around The Horn, so after classes we all went to the Zoo - close by to our apartment, in the middle of the city!

It was a great chance for Charlotte to see many different types of animals up close (rather than in a circus or TV!) and the highlight was the 3 white lion cubs.

Exploring the city and parks - Sunday 30th January 2011

Sunday morning we met up with Kathy Zack, who had arrived from a cruise Around The Horn.
We went to the market at San Telmo, where Charlotte enjoyed posing with all the street performers:

and then later went to the parks in Palermo. There are some lovely parks in the city - we rented bikes for a couple of hours and rode around the lake about 10 times! (Charlotte's favourite activity!)

Being sunday afternoon, the park was busy with people cycling, rollerblading, playing roller-hockey, boating on the lake etc.

We were due to meet up with Kathy again but she didn't turn up.  We later found that she had been "gooped" - the latest pick pocketing trick played here - they will spray goo on you from behind, and then a man and a woman will come from either side, pretending to help you clean up, whiles also trying to "clean up" your possessions.  Luckily Kathy was aware that they do this and realised once they tried to get her over to a wall, and wanted to hold her bag, that something was up and got out of there with all her possessions still in tack!

Guacho Day - Saturday 29th January

Up early and a 2 hour coach ride out to to the Argentinian countryside to Don Silvano Estancia Turistica (ranch) for the day, with the other tourists, to see the gauchos and life on an Argentinian ranch.

First some empanadas and wine to start!   Then a ride on a horse.


Lunch was a big BBQ accompanied by Argentinian wine.  First salad, french fries, sausages and chicken to fill the first plate.  Once we were full, we found out why we had 2 plates - the main part of the BBQ was about to arrive - meat, meat and more meat!! - you wouldn't want to be a vegetarian in Argentina!

While eating, we watched a great show of dancing and tango,

followed by a gaucho show outside with the gauchoes showing us some great horseman ship and how different traditions.


Charlotte loved the horse riding best (even though we never made it past a walk) and so we managed to do one more trip around the field before back in the minibus and back to Buenos Aires.

We are thinking about arranging another trip out to an estancia, where we will get a chance to do more riding.